58 AUGUS T 2017
Nancy Sheridan Laird, soup is sensuous
and stunning. Exhibit A: his watermelon
and tomato gazpacho, thick and teasingly sweet, with whole, paprika-dusted
shrimp. Exhibit B: foam-crested, brandy-tinged lobster chowder with kaffir lime
and summer vegetables. But Laird, who
grows many of his own tomatoes and
lettuces, in fact handles every dish and
protein with creativity and loving care.
John Jansma brings the same qualities
to cocktails, and the staff make every
customer feel valued.
6 Roosevelt Avenue, 973-701-0303, restaurantser-
In 2006, Bon Appetit hailed Mike Stollenwerk’s Philadelphia BYO, Little Fish,
as one of the best seafood restaurants in
the country. The Ocean City native then
endured a decade of ups and downs before crossing the Delaware to reconnect
T WO FISH Chef Mike Stollenwerk has a rare ability to build complex and thoroughly engrossing
showcases for seafood while never stomping on the star protein, which remains delicate and even regal.
Examples include mussels in panang Thai curry with coconut milk, lemongrass, ginger and cilantro and,
right, seared skate wing topped with melted leeks on truffled späetzle in a frothed parmesan broth.
DINE AL FRESCO WITH