Coach Room; 59 W Broad St, Bridgeton (856-
451-0041). Casual American cuisine featuring
salad and dessert bars. L—Mon–Sat, 11 AM–2: 30
PM. D—Mon–Sat, 4–10 PM; Sun, 3–9 PM. $$
Barcelona Bistro;126 South Broadway, Pitman
(856-270-2352). Spanish/Mediterranean cuisine, featuring garlic soup, rack of lamb and branzino. Tues–
Thurs, 11: 30 AM– 9 PM; Fri and Sat, 11: 30 AM– 10 PM;
Sun, 2–8 PM. $$$. AX, D, DC, MC, V. BYO. (;½ 3/13)
Luna Rossa Biagio Lamberti;3210 Rt 42,
Turnersville (856-728-4505). Italian cuisine, featuring fried calamari and filet mignon. L—Tues–
Sat, 11 AM– 10 PM. Sun, noon– 9 PM. AX, D, DC, MC,
V. /$$$. BYO.
Tavro Thirteen;1301 Kings Highway,
Swedesboro (856-467-8413). Contemporary
American cuisine, featuring swordfish, house-made pastas and lemon-olive oil cake. L—Mon–
Fri, 11: 30 AM–2: 30 PM. D—Sun–Thurs, 5–10 PM; Sat
and Sun, 5–11 PM. Brunch—Sun, 10: 30 AM–2: 30
PM. $$$. AX, D, MC, V. G ; (;;½ 5/13)
Europa South Restaurant 521 Arnold Ave,
Point Pleasant Beach (732-295-1500). Spanish/
Portuguese cuisine. Entertainment Fri and Sat, 9
PM–1: 30 AM. L—Mon–Sat, 11: 30 AM–2: 30 PM. D—
Mon–Sat, 4–10 PM; Sun, noon– 10 PM. $$. AX,MC,
DC, V. G ;
Grenville Hotel and Restaurant 345 Main
Ave, Rt 35, Bay Head (732-892-3100). American/
French cuisine, featuring avocado crab tower, ahi
tuna tartare and dayboat scallops. D—Tues–Sat,
5–9: 30 PM. L—Wed–Sat, 11: 30 AM–2: 30 PM. Brunch,
Sun, 9: 30 AM–1: 30 PM. $$$. AX, D, MC, V.
Liberté Cruise and Dine Point Pleasant (732-
892-8894). French/Continental cuisine aboard a
classic yacht, featuring Peruvian ceviche of scallops and filet de boeuf. $$$. BYO I
Plantation Restaurant and Bar 7908 Long
Beach Blvd, Harvey Cedars (609-494-8191).
Caribbean-Latin cuisine. Sun–Thurs, 11: 30
AM–9: 30 PM; Fri and Sat, 11: 30 AM–10: 30 PM. $$.
AX, D, MC, V. G ;
Telford Inn;145 Bridgeton Pike, Mantua (856-
468-0535). American cuisine, featuring seafood
bisque, potato-crusted salmon and New York
strip steak. L—Mon–Sat, 11: 30 AM– 4 PM. D—
Mon–Thurs, 4–10 PM; Fri and Sat, 4–11 PM; Sun,
2: 30–10 PM. Brunch—Sun, 9: 30 AM– 1 PM. $$. AX,
D, DC, MC, V. G ; I
J. G. Cook’s Riverview Inn 60 Main St,
Pennsville (856-678-3700). American cuisine, featuring clams casino, crab cakes and filet mignon.
L—Wed–Sat, 11: 30 AM– 4 PM. D—Wed and Thurs,
4–10 PM; Fri and Sat, 4–11 PM; Sun, 2–9 PM. $$.
AX, D, MC, V. G
with syrupy aged balsamic. Mainstream
dishes showed attention to detail. The
breaded cutlets in a veal parm retained
their crispness under layers of gravy and
cheese. The thick-cut veal chop came
smothered in Fontina and mushrooms
simmered in Marsala. When carefully
prepared with fine ingredients, classics
like these can satisfy in a way prissy
It’s a shame the pleasures come at a
prohibitive cost. Martorano’s other locations always offer family-size portions.
At Harrah’s, the portions are normal size.
The fantastic Eggplant Stacked is a $23
appetizer. Bucatini carbonara—
Martorano said he buys Rustichella d’Abruzzo,
“the best high-quality pasta, straight
from Italy”—rivaled versions I’ve had
in Rome. But at $28, it cost more, even
factoring in the exchange rate.
Martorano’s is famous for its egg-battered, lemon-sauced lobster Fran-cese served with jumbo lump crabmeat,
usually a special. I’ve had it a half-dozen times in Fort Lauderdale, where the
price was $75, but the sheer amount of
tender lobster was massive. At Harrah’s,
the dish cost $65, but consisted of two
small tails entombed in spongy batter.
Another disappointment was the bowl
of oversalted orecchiette tossed with
escarole, mushy beans and basically
Unlike the rest of the fare, desserts
are halfhearted and one-dimensional. A
waffle-and-ice cream sundae was spongy
and messy; a chocolate layer cake topped
with a chocolate disc bearing that “Yo
Cuz!” catchphrase was no better than
You feel like shouting “Yo Cuz!” when
trying to flag down a harried server on a
busy night. The servers wear tags with
oddball names like Noodles or Toast.
At Martorano’s the food is satisfying,
the prices are high and the experience—
well, it’s like no other.—ADAM ERACE
(Continued from page 97)
NE W JERSE Y MONTHLY December 2014 107
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