y aim is to deliver the highest level of food, without pretense
or sticker shock,” David Viana, executive chef of the Kitchen at
Grove Station, told me. “Jersey City residents needed this.”
Given that downtown Jersey City already has one of the
hippest and fastest-growing restaurant scenes in the state, the second part
of Viana’s statement does suggest some pretense. On the other hand, the
35-year-old chef is on firm ground claiming high-quality food. And with
many dishes on his 20-item dinner menu priced under $20—the highest is a
$26 strip steak—no one will need smelling salts when they see the bill.
The restaurant’s name stems from its location on the ground floor of the
1989 International Financial Tower, which faces the entrances to the Grove
Street PATH station. When you enter, you pass a barista bar operated by Jersey City’s cool Modcup roastery at the head of the long, 72-seat dining room.
On the right is the semi-open kitchen; on the left, a windowed wall lined
with high-backed booths under dangling Edison-type bulbs. In the center are
rustic wooden tables lit by chandeliers, including one crafted from antlers.
Viana is adept at intensifying flavors. An exemplar was his $10 corn soup.
EDITED BY ERIC LEVIN
REVIEWS BY KAREN TINA HARRISON,
DANYA HENNINGER AND ADAM ERACE
A Trove at Grove
David Viana, after stints under several
top chefs, now leads his own crew. His
Kitchen at Grove Station is worth a stop.
THE KITCHEN AT
FOOD: New American
AMBIENCE: Nouveau hunting lodge
SERVICE: Welcoming, well paced, informed
WINE LIST: Full bar; wine by the glass: 8
whites, 8 reds
PRICES: Midsize plates, $9-$17; larger plates,
$14-$26; desserts, $8-$9
HOURS: Dinner: Wednesday through Sunday,
5 to 10 PM; Lunch: Wednesday through Friday,
11 AM to 3 PM; Café menu: Wednesday through
Friday, 3 to 5 PM; Brunch: Saturday and Sunday,
10 AM to 3 PM
AX, D, MC, V X
299 Marin Boulevard, Jersey City