eat & drink
● EDGE WATER
FOOD Vietnamese and Thai
AMBIENCE Functional, yet colorful and upbeat
SERVICE Engaged and informed
PRICES Soups, noodles, bowls, small plates, $8-
$19; entrées, $16-$28; desserts, $6-$8
OPEN Lunch and dinner, daily
725 River Road #30, 201-402-3400; seaknj.com
By Karen Tina Harrison
It’s good to get to SEAK early. You’ll have a shot at one of the four tables on the windowed rear wall of the
Edgewater restaurant, with their view
of the Hudson River and Manhattan’s
Upper West Side. And you’ll have time
to pore over the extensive menu.
SEAK (Southeast Asian Kitchen)
serves mostly Vietnamese and Thai
food. The menu’s 48 items—many with
a choice of four proteins (including
tofu)—are divided into small plates,
salads, soups, noodle soups, banh mi
sandwiches, noodles, fried rice, entrées,
curries and seafood. There are nine nonalcoholic drinks (including 13 types of
bubble tea) and seven desserts. Phew!
Chef James Wang, 34, opened SEAK
with his sister Lynn Sladowsky in 2017.
Wang trained at his Vietnam-born aunt
and uncle’s Toronto-area restaurants, and
in 2009 opened Lemongrass Viet-Thai
in Morris Plains, which he still owns. Of
SEAK, he says, “I wanted a more contem-
Wang designed the space (104 seats,
36 more outdoors) with his contractor.
It’s modern and colorful, with alternating red and black steel chairs, concrete
floors, wood tables and metal wall facings that call to mind Southeast Asia’s
patterned window and door panels.
There were hits and misses. Tom kha
coconut soup was silken and fragrant,
its sweetness tempered by the pucker
of citrusy galangal. Ganh chua, a Vietnamese hot-and-sour soup, on the other
hand, was candy sweet, its tamarind
tang defeated by brown sugar.
Vietnam’s ubiquitous street sandwich,
the banh mi, comes on crusty mini-ba-guettes from Teixeira Bakery in Newark,
Celebrate the Season.
www.frogandpeach.com | email@example.com
“I love the food and
the people. This is my
favorite diner by far!”
392 Amboy Avenue, Woodbridge, NJ
Where good friends meet to eat
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