AVID DRAKE IS ONE OF JUST TWO CHEFS ever to have two restau-
rants in NJM’s Top 25 two years in a row (2008-’09). In the course of
closing those places—Restaurant David Drake in Rahway, his bastion of
fine dining, and Daryl in New Brunswick, his wine bar with adventur-
ous food—Drake joined Alice’s, an eatery on Lake Hopatcong, in 2009.
“Owning and running a restaurant is, let’s say, stressful, even in the best
of times,” he told me back then. “[At Alice’s], I can be simply the chef.”
Last spring, Drake left the lake for the Hudson River, becoming executive
chef of downtown Jersey City’s venerable Light Horse Tavern. The plan was for
Drake to also serve as executive chef of Greene Hook, a pub that Light Horse
co-owner Bill Gray was planning to open on Greene Street in the Paulus Hook
neighborhood, a block east of Light Horse and two blocks west of the river.
“Alice’s was busy four months of the year,” Drake told me on the phone
after my Greene Hook visits. “I lost my energy. I kept tabs on the Jersey
City dining excitement, and when Bill got in touch, I was ready.”
Greene Hook debuted last September on the ground floor of a 48-story PHOT
EDITED BY ERIC LEVIN
REVIEWS BY KAREN TINA HARRISON,
ADAM ERACE AND PEG ROSEN
Hooked on Flavor
After a so-so sojourn at Lake Hopatcong,
chef David Drake returns to stellar form
at a new pub hard by the Hudson River.
FOOD: New American
AMBIENCE: Hip sports bar with well-spaced tables
SERVICE: Welcoming, attentive, informed
WINE LIST: The sweet spots are house
cocktails and craft beers
PRICES: Appetizers, $9-$13; entrées, $17-
$27; desserts, $9
HOURS: Dinner: Daily, 5 to 11 PM. Lunch:
Monday through Friday, 11: 30 AM to 3: 30 PM.
Brunch: Saturday and Sunday, 10: 30 AM to
4 PM. Late night: Sunday through Wednesday, 11 PM to midnight; Friday and Saturday,
to 1 AM.
AX, D, MC, V X
70 Greene Street, Jersey City