eat & drink
HO W WE REVIE W Restaurants are chosen for review at the sole discretion of the dining editor, based on input from our food writers and critics around the state. Our reviewers visit a restaurant at least twice, always maintaining anonymity to avoid preferential treatment. The reviewer brings up to three guests per visit and tastes everything
that is ordered. NJM reimburses the reviewer for all food and beverage expenses. After the final visit, the reviewer conducts a phone interview with the chef, owner or other
key members of the team. The review is then submitted to NJM and edited for clarity and fairness. Stars are assigned by the editor in consultation with the reviewer. As a
final step, an NJM sta;er checks the review for accuracy, always calling the restaurant to confirm all facts.
Excellent Fair Good Very Good Extraordinary
FOOD New American
AMBIENCE Rustic lakeside charm
SERVICE Friendly and attentive
DRINKS Full bar, craft beers, 18 wines by the glass
PRICES Appetizers, $7.99–$9.99; salads, $4.99–
$8.50; entrées, $16.99-$29.99; desserts, $4.25–$6.99
OPEN Lunch and dinner, daily ;
F6 White Deer Plaza, 973-729-5677
By Suzanne Zimmer Lowery
In ;;;;, businessman Keith Holmes bought a fading landmark road- house on man-made Lake Mohawk
in Sparta. Ripping out tattered carpet
and tossing musty taxidermied animals
that had lined the walls for decades, he
turned Arthur’s St. Moritz into a big,
bustling new St. Moritz Grill & Bar, with
an outdoor biergarten on the lake.
To run the kitchen, Holmes brought
in old friend and colleague Joel Cain, an
experienced chef with stints in Florida
and Ohio. Together, they have made St.
Moritz notable for warm, capable ser-
vice and good food at reasonable prices.
Yes, we had to ask for bread on our first
visit, but overall, that was a hiccup.
The menu is broad and aimed to
please. There’s a kids’ menu and many
gluten-free options. A reliable starter is
Prince Edward Island mussels with vegetables. We enjoyed them in a gingery
broth with lemongrass, chili flakes and
coconut milk. Recently, the preparation
changed to a light garlic-cream sauce
with slivers of crispy brown garlic and
slices of grilled bread to sop up sauce.
One of the most popular starters is the
artichoke and spinach dip flavored with
pepper jack cheese. Adding a scoop of
lump crabmeat was well worth the ;;
surcharge. In the same crowd-pleasing
category is tender-crunchy calamari
fried with peppers, jalapeños, carrots
and dried tomatoes, served with lemon
aioli and spicy chipotle sauce.
was followed by a version of the Anglo-Indian rice and fish dish, kedgeree,
prepared with a delicate, slow-roasted
square of salmon. For dessert, Stollenwerk sent out a turtle cookie cup
filled with chocolate and caramel and
served with the best co;ee ice cream
I’ve had—not too sweet, saturated with
pure flavors of co;ee and milk.
Credit Stollenwerk’s mother, Karen
Adams, a talented home cook who
makes all the Sunday prix-fixe desserts,
including the turtle, and all of Two
Fish’s ice creams. Her Sunday hit pa-
rade includes a dense apple-butter cake
and a date cake glazed with a brown
sugar-Bourbon sauce. On weekdays,
Stollenwerk keeps pace with, for ex-
ample, a smooth, bittersweet-chocolate
budino topped with cinnamon whipped
cream and chopped jalapeño-spiced
almonds—a ri; on the flavors of Mexi-
In his Philadelphia days, Stollenwerk was never the one who talked of
empire building. He got ahead of himself but has settled down. He remains
ambitious—now in the best way.
“There are definitely no other
projects in the works,” he says. “We are
going to plant our roots here and focus
on quality and consistency.”
SWIMMINGLY Left: drizzling tru;e oil on melted
leeks on seared skate wing in frothed parmesan
broth. Above: grilled octopus in poached-egg
vinaigrette. Top: the cozy, collegial dining room.