The signature Stove Pipe chopped salad
packs mixed chopped greens with bacon,
tomato, blue cheese, chickpeas and more
into a stack melded with white balsamic
vinaigrette. “I would have to leave town if
I took it o; the menu,” says Cain.
An unusual kalette salad last summer
was not so successful. Its roasted kale
and brussels sprouts were unpleasantly
chewy, and the sliced oranges, pine nuts
and goat cheese did not play well together.
It’s been replaced for winter by a roasted
root-vegetable salad with bacon and blue
cheese on Bibb lettuce that works well.
Small plates are a sweet spot. Last
summer, there were Thai scallops on
stir-fried vegetables with cashews in
a sweet-spicy red curry sauce. Shrimp
and grits is, like the Stove Pipe salad, a
dish Cain would be nuts to remove. It’s
cheesy, flecked with andouille sausage,
scallions and tomato. A small plate of two
lollipop lamb chops was notable for its
blue-cheese mashed potatoes and apple
gastrique. The chops themselves were
tender, but overly fatty.
The signature entrée at St. Moritz—the
menu proclaims it “Our #; Seller!”—is
chicken schnitzel. A pounded breast,
breaded and fried, it is served with
mashed potatoes, vegetable and a simple
but satisfying lemon and white-wine
sauce. The grilled, ;;-ounce pork chop—
brined ;; hours for tenderness, Cain
says—is another reliable staple. Last summer, in a style suited to the season, it was
served with a sweet-and-spicy barbecue
sauce and potato croquettes. This season
the preparation is Bavarian style, with a
sherry cream sauce showered with crispy
frizzled onions and more of those crisp-skinned, creamy potato croquettes.
The novelty prize goes to the jumbo
scallops with white-chocolate sauce. “Yes,
you read it correctly,” says the menu, ac-
knowledging the counterintuitive combo.
The four large sautéed scallops nest in a
bowl of orzo, spinach and sweet potato.
They are glazed with a dill-and-caper but-
ter sauce swirled with white chocolate and
balanced with just enough salt. It works.
For dessert, go conservative with
classic crème brûlée or over the top with
Banana Volcano Krunch, which turns
out to be bananas Foster in crispy phyllo
with coconut ice cream. An apple crisp
was heavy on cinnamon and light on the
essential streusel crust.
29 Haddon Avenue
OPEN Breakfast, lunch and dinner,
Tues-Sat; brunch, Sat-Sun
S T YLE Gluten-free, dairy-free,
meat-free, egg-free haven with
counter service, lots of sunlight
and flowers in Mason jars on a
THE SCOOP Owner Ashley
Doyne, 29, is a vegan. When she
lost her job with the Philadelphia
Wings lacrosse team a few years
ago, her mom and stepdad,
who own Max’s and Chubby’s
restaurants in Gloucester City,
encouraged her to open her own
free-spirited café for people with
dietary restrictions. In late 2015,
Doyne did just that.
THE MENU The food is colorful
as well as flavorful. Lentil tacos
(left) come with red salsa and
guacamole; pumpkin hummus
comes with blue tortilla chips.
Eggplant meatballs with zuc-
chini noodles are served in a
marinara; a portobello burger
with caramelized onions
and kale walnut pesto on
gluten-free bun comes with
an orange tahini kale salad.
Soy- or almond-milk smoothies
are decadently desserty.
HEADS UP At happy hour, $5
kombucha drafts come with a
note that “kombucha makes for
great mixers.” Free yoga class 9
;; Saturdays.—Tara Nurin
229 Centre Street
OPEN Dinner, nightly; brunch,
S T YLE Speakeasy-inspired
two-room tavern with artfully
distressed surfaces, reclaimed
oak flooring, and an old-fashioned, marble-topped bar.
THE SCOOP After John Cowan
closed his venerable Nutley Pub
in 2014, brothers Tom and Dean
Maroulakos resurrected it in
2015 and named it for Cowan,
who still owns the building. Tom
Maroulakos, a former bre wer
at High Point Brewing in Butler,
personally selects the rotating 15
craft beers on tap. The brothers
also operate Barro w House, a
new restaurant in Clifton.
THE MENU There are 12
seasonal cocktails (including
one barrel aged). Standout apps
(all generous) include seared
brussels sprouts with mustard,
shallots and apple-cider vinegar;
and tacos, including pulled
pork with frizzled onions and
hot sauce from Hank Sauce
in Sea Isle City. Mains are
from a tasty Cuban sandwich
on pretzel roll (left) to a
cheeseburger on brioche.
The Harvest Salad, on grilled
romaine, includes barley, pumpkin seeds, beets, maple goat
cheese and pickled red onion in
HEADS UP Reservations only
for parties of six or more. The 10
dining room tables can fill quickly.
On-street parking is plentiful and
The New West
● BOUND BROOK
525 Talmadge Avenue
OPEN Lunch and dinner, daily;
S T YLE Basic neighborhood
tavern serving pub faves and
other comfort foods. The bar,
running the length of the space,
squeezes in a small platform for
live music, open mic nights and
karaoke. All of those are draws.
There is also outdoor seating,
weather permitting. Meanwhile,
plenty of screens showing sports.
THE SCOOP Julianne (Jules)
Martin bought Gregory’s West-
brook, a longtime staple in this
mostly residential area, six years
ago. Martin updated the menu
and expanded the entertain-
THE MENU Small-bites receive
refreshing touches like calamari
with Romesco and citrus
aioli; onion strings with
cream chipotle dipping
sauce; or jalapeño poppers
with cilantro crema. Burgers
(left) are large and juicy.
Sandwiches range from standards like a turkey BLT and a
Reuben to the Bu;alo chicken
with pickled celery, gorgonzola and house-made chips.
Entrées include a creamy wild
mushroom mac and cheese,
grilled N Y strip steak as well as
fish and pasta options.
HEADS UP Every one of the
New West Brook’s 11 signature
cold and four hot coffee cocktails are sweet, and its beer list is
surprisingly small and generic.
—Deborah P. Carter
;;;;;; (most entrées)
; Under ;;;
;; ;;; to ;;;
;;; Over ;;;
that won’t break