AMBIENCE: Rustically chic
SERVICE: Affable, striving
WINE LIST: Interesting mid-
price choices, mainly West Coast.
Specialty cocktails are overly sweet.
DINNER FOR TWO: $90
HOURS: Dinner: Monday through
Saturday, 5 to 10 PM; Sunday, 5 to 9
PM. Brunch: Saturday and Sunday,
10: 30 AM to 2: 30 PM. Bar Menu: 5
PM to closing.
AX, MC, V, D; X
11 Witherspoon Street, Princeton
Not About Cola!
FARM FOOD: Steve Tomlinson,
manager of Great Road Farm, holds
one of the hens that provide Agricola with eggs. Top left, plum
teff cake (replacing apricot,
served earlier in the season).
Top right, the roast chicken
with Tuscan fried potatoes
shows unusual finesse.
Whether you say Agri-cola (wrong) or A-greek-
o-la (correct; it’s Latin for farmer), Princeton’s
new Agricola raises farm-to-table a nifty notch.
You can sense that without even stepping inside. In the gutting and redesign, the
kitchen was moved, at Thomsen’s request, from the back to the very front. A picture window now separates it from the sidewalk, where a gaggle of gawkers usually
ARELY HAS A RESTAURANT met its goals as fast as Agricola, which opened in
March in the space that for 91 years housed Princeton’s hallowed Lahiere’s.
Owner Jim Nawn has kept the vintage, vertical Lahiere’s sign on the facade, but
no one will mistake the convivial farm-to-table “community eatery,” in Nawn’s words,
for the landmark French restaurant. That Agricola’s 200 seats—in six handsome, rustically hip spaces—have been filled virtually since day one tells you how well Nawn
and executive chef Josh Thomsen have hit their marks right out of the gate.
PHOTOS: S TUAR T GOLDENBERG;
TOMLINSON— ANDREW WILKINSON