Lo;e St;r Love
MORE THAN Q STOCKTON
“A lot of our faithful customers are from
Texas,” says Matt Martin, owner of More
Than Q, in the Stockton Farm Market. “Anytime
we get a new one, they walk right up and say,
‘I’m from Texas!’ And I think, Oh, shit, how’s the
Martin needn’t worry. Pretty much every
More Than Q customer is soon too busy licking
lips and tucking into Texas-style brisket, pulled
pork and assorted fixin’s to do anything but
give a (sauce-splattered) thumbs up to this low-
profile but big-flavored Jersey ’cue corral.
“When it comes to meat,” Martin declares,
“Texas is the only influence. Brisket, to me, is
what you need to do right if you’re going to do
barbecue. I still hand select every brisket, be-
cause I’m looking for something special. It has to
have the right size and the right fat content on
top. It also has to be all natural or prime Angus.”
Martin, who hails a long way from Texas
(Newtown, Pennsylvania) approaches his
smoker as other great brisket whisperers do:
with reverence, his senses on alert.
“The meat tells you when it’s done, by
feel and by sight,” he says. “I never, ever
need to use a thermometer.”
Even so—and despite frequent lines
for the brisket and pulled pork—Mar-
tin is reluctant to bestow barbecue’s
ultimate honorific on himself.
“I’d put our meats against any-
body’s,” he declares. “But I’ve known
guys who have done this decades and
decades, and that’s a humbling thing.
I don’t know that I’m qualified to call
myself a pitmaster.”
Ironically, Texas is not where Martin
got the barbecue bug. In 1994, he was
about to start his freshman year at the
University of South Carolina when he
stopped for a pork fix and some famous South
Carolina mustard sauce at Maurice’s Piggy Park,
a renowned tabernacle of ’cue in West Colum-
bia, South Carolina.
“It was the first legit barbecue I had ever
tasted,” he says, “and it was a transformative
experience. It was an epiphany. I knew I wanted
to build a business on barbecue.”
He graduated from the University of Mary-
land with a bachelor’s degree in communica-
tions, worked in sales in Chicago for a decade
then went to culinary school at Chicago’s Ken-
NO BUM STEER
More Than Q pitmaster Matt Martin
side-saddles near a
stack of his slow-smoked spare ribs.
Opposite page, an
eater,s eye view of the
same toothsome ribs.
42 July 2015 NJMONTHLY.COM
KEY TO THE SYMBOLS
*Server takes your order at table.