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Food news, reviews, and commentary from the staff of NJ Monthly
Bill of Fare
An Offer You Can't Refuse
Angelo Lutz isn't ashamed to admit he
served seven years in prison for
racketeering. In fact, his Collingswood
restaurant, Kitchen Consigliere,
promotes and lampoons his past. Apart
from the schtick, the reason to go, says
reviewer Jill P. Capuzzo, is that Lutz's
classic red sauce Italian food is
excellent. Read More.
When in Rome
Or rather, when in Stone Harbor, head for
Spiaggetta, run by a chef who grew up in Rome
and worked on the fishing docks of nearby
Ladispoli on the Tyrrhenian Sea. In his review,
Chris Malloy praises the food—especially the
seafood—of that chef, Marco Tarantino. Read
Table Hopping with Rosie
This Week's Restaurant News
Today Rosie tells us about Bistro Seven Three in New Providence. Read more.
Openings and Closings
Chefs in the Ne ws
Rosie posts five days a week! Check out njmonthly.com for this week's Food For
Soup To Nuts
AC Trains the Chefs of Tomorrow, Today!
A new culinary training program is getting under way in Atlantic City, designed to
get students from the classroom to professional kitchens in just four months.
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lettuce, arugula, red onions, endive and
orange slices, it was dressed in an herb
vinaigrette so tasty that Reid bottles it
for commercial distribution. It’s also
sold at the restaurant, along with his jerk
sauce and hot pepper sauce.
All the fish dishes we tried were excellent, the best being escovitch—a thick curl
of fleshy pickled cod, pan fried, deglazed,
and served with a delicious, sweet, cooked-cabbage slaw. Red snapper, whole or filleted, can be ordered Jamaican style (pan
fried, deglazed with vinegar, topped with
tomatoes, onions and garlic) or steamed
with a buttery Creole mix of onions, tomatoes and okra. In our tasting, the steamed
cod slightly edged out the Jamaican style.
In the curried shrimp entrée, large shrimp
came with the same curry sauce as the roti,
here finished with coconut milk.
Reid’s jerk pork and chicken fared differently. The tender shredded pork more
persuasively absorbed the heat of the
Scotch-bonnet pepper marinade than did
the grilled chicken breast, which was a bit
dry and pale in jerk flavor. Curried goat
stew (a delight in Jamaica) was tough and
gristly, despite spending more than two
hours in the Dutch oven. All entrées come
with white rice and beans (heavy on the
rice) and vegetables. The fried sweet
plantains were sufficiently sweet without
Less sweet than the sweet plantains
was one of the desserts, Jamaican Black
Cake, traditionally served at Christmas,
weddings and birthdays. I could not resist
the finely chopped dried prunes, cherries and dates, soaked in rum and densely
packed into the molasses-flavored cake.
A chocolate layer cake with sherry-infused light chocolate mousse was
ordinary. At my table, the winner by
acclamation was peach rum cake—
rum-soaked peaches between layers of fluffy,
rum-infused sponge, topped with rum-spiked whipped cream. As Reid noted
with a chuckle, “We have a lot of rum in
Jamaica.”—JILL P. CAPUZZO