FOOD: French-inspired New American
AMBIENCE: Hip, eclectic roadhouse
SERVICE: Knowledgeable, personal
WINE LIST: BYO
DINNER FOR TWO: $80
HOURS: Dinner: Wednesday through
Saturday, 5: 30 to 10 PM. Takeout
charcuterie counter: Tuesday through
Saturday, 10 AM to 5 PM
AX, D, DC, MC, V
88 Kingwood Stockton Road, Rosemont
IN 2009, CHEF MATTHEW RIDGWAY left New York City jobless and burned
out. In a 15-year career that had taken him from his native Bucks County,
Pennsylvania, to Philadelphia, Atlanta, Taiwan and Paris, he had scaled the
heights of fine dining under two great mentors, the French chefs Jean-Marie
Lacroix and Joël Antunes. Schooled in French technique, steeled in the discipline of 16-hour days, he had dedicated himself to perfection and had reached
Fleeing the summit of fine dining, Matt
Ridgway swept floors and made prosciutto.
Now he’s back, boldly elevating the basics.
DON’T PASS IT BY:
Chef Matt Ridgway—
holding a tray of his
to make charcuterie
in his glory years.
The craft sustained
him emotionally and
financially after he
left fine dining, went
home to Pennsylvania
and regrouped. Last
May he opened the
Pass, left, the first restaurant of his own.
THIRD COURSE: At the
prix-fixe Pass, every meal
includes dessert, like this
crema catalan, a kind of
flan, with candied lemon
peel, from a recent menu.